It all started with a couple of Beers, sometime back in November, 2014. A few friends were chilling out on a Saturday evening. Suddenly, someone brought forward the topic of a road trip to Ladakh.
It has always been a dream for many youngsters to do this road trip on one of the most dangerous circuits in the world (the Leh-Manali Highway). But, due to its high risk factors, difficult stretches and comparatively higher cost, the dream often stays as a dream for many. The same was with all of us too. We planned for this trip earlier many times but, failed to make it happen.
As the conversation went on, me (Arko), Vikash & Shouvik made up our mind that this is it. Let’s make this road trip happen this year itself or else it will again get pushed down in our bucket list and might not get executed ever. We chalked out a rough plan and shared it with all the other friends so that, those who want to do this trip, get enough time to plan and save money that is required for this trip.
Initially, as per our rough planning, we thought of hitting the road during the first weekend of June, 2015. After doing a lot of research works, we decided to postpone our plan by a week or two, as it will ensure that the Leh-Manali highway gets opened by that time. Usually, every year, the road gets cleared and becomes open to public by May end or June starting. So, to be on the safe side, we decided to plan for the second weekend of June.
During the month of February, 2015, the plan took a proper dimension and shape, when we booked our flight tickets to Chandigarh from Bangalore. The journey dates got fixed to June 11th & June 22nd respectively. A group of nine people were in for the plan and we started our research work to the core for the next 2-3 months.
A detailed itinerary was prepared by April and it was shared with everyone. But, it seems that there was some extra adventure and excitement written in our luck! As earlier said, usually, every year, the road gets cleared and is open to public by May end or June starting. This time the scenario was different. It snowed heavily and as declared, it was the highest snowfall in that area over the past 15 years.
It was very difficult for the BRO to cut & clear the snow and make the road available for public usage. I was taking regular updates from several sources, including different blogs that are dedicated for this road trip to Ladakh. “BCM Touring” and “Devil on Wheels” are among the blogs that helped me a lot in gathering latest information on the Leh Manali Highway status and planning for our trip.
As our journey date was nearing by, the excitement was increasing rapidly along with the uncertainty factor. It was almost towards mid-May and there were still no confirmation on the date when the Leh-Manali Highway will get opened. The opening of Rohtang Pass was also delayed this year and it got finally cleared on May 15th. With another 26 days in hand, we felt like our trip was six feet from the edge and rumors were in the air that the road might get opened by June 1st or latest by the first weekend of June.
With no choice left in our hand, we were simply hoping for the best and though unwillingly, but still, started for preparing a backup plan. The days passed by like anything and in the meantime something else happened to add on to our adrenaline rush.
Our plan was to do the road trip in a combination of both motorcycles and car. Shouvik has his own Royal Enfield Desert Storm. He would transport his bike to Chandigarh via courier service or as a parcel through the railway. We will rent another 2 Royal Enfield from Manali (which was already been booked via BRM, by Vikash and Amal (another member of our gang)) and a car. So, it summed up to 3 Royal Enfield motorcycles, an SUV and 9 travelers.
Shouvik was supposed to parcel his motorcycle to Chandigarh on June 6th via Yesvantpur Sampark Kranti Express but, due to some miscommunication & false information, he failed to do so! Vikash & Shouvik looked for courier services too on that day, but, it was already late and the motorcycle will not be able to get transported to Chandigarh by any means on or before June 11th. Whether it was a boon or a bane, that got cleared later, but, at that point of time, it was a matter of certain disappointment to all of us. Right at that moment, Vikash booked another Royal Enfield from BRM, in order to support our plan.
The first weekend of June passed by and still, there was no confirmation on the opening of the Leh-Manali highway. From the blogs, that I was following, there was news that the BRO is trying their best to open the Leh-Manali Highway sometime between June 15th & June 19th. The main issue was with the deadly Baralacha La, also known as Bara-lacha Pass, a high mountain pass in the Zanskar range, connecting Lahaul district in Himachal Pradesh to Ladakh in Jammu and Kashmir, situated along the Leh-Manali highway.
With a tight schedule in hand and the journey date knocking at the door, there was high confusion on whether we will be able to make it or not. Looking at the condition of the road and the high uncertainty factor of our itinerary, 3 from our group dropped out from the plan on June 9th and decided to go for the backup plan, which was the road trip to Spiti Valley. Even, the rest of the guys were also in a dilemma on whether to go for the backup plan (Spiti Valley) or follow our instincts and take the risk to see what’s in there for us!
It was a do or die situation and we were damn desperate not to give up so easily. Why it shouldn’t be? After all, it’s Ladakh and also a dream trip for everyone that we planned for almost more than six months.
~June 11, 2015~
Finally the D-day arrived and we were 6 people (me, Vikash, Shouvik, Kaushik, Deepu (Deepankar) & Amal (Amalendu)) heading for the unknown!
Go Indigo!
Our flight to Chandigarh was on the same day (June 11th), but the timings were different. I was the first to reach there at 12:55 PM, followed by Shouvik, Vikash, Amal and Deepu, who were in the same flight and reached there at 2:20 PM. Kaushik was supposed to arrive there at 4:30 PM. So, without waiting for him and with a hungry stomach, we headed for “Pal Dhaba”, a famous restaurant in Sector 28D, Chandigarh.
**Note: It’s better to book a Mega cab or OLA cab or Uber rather than going for the prepaid taxis at Chandigarh airport. There’s a huge difference in the prices. If you would enquire, you will surely get to know.
Satisfying our hungry stomach at "Pal Dhaba"!
Have been to Punjab or Chandigarh and didn't had a glass of Lassi is perhaps one of the most unforgivable sin! ;)
After satisfying our stomach to its extreme, we headed towards Sector 43B from where, our bus to Manali was scheduled at night 11:15 PM. We booked a roadside hotel, nearby the bus stand, just to dump our luggage and take a short break. The rate, they charged was hourly based and we paid 600 bucks for some 6-7 hours.
From left: Kaushik, Shouvik, Vikash, Deepankar, Amalendu & me behind the lens!
It's dinner time guys!
One of the most happiest persons I have ever met till now, who has more than 100% Job Satisfaction!
Here comes our next horrible experience!
Don’t go by the bus timings provided at Redbus or Paytm websites. We booked our bus tickets separately with BFC Holidays, from Redbus and Paytm due to some offers. Our Bus was scheduled for 11:35 PM and the reporting time was at 11:15 PM. Though we received the bus information by SMS, but, we were taken aback when the bus didn’t arrive till 11:25 PM. After calling the bus representative, they informed us that the bus will arrive at the pickup point at around 12:30 AM. At that time, we cursed BFC Holidays like anything but, later, after reaching Manali, we came to know that it’s the same with all the travels running in the Chandigarh-Manali route. After enquiring from several other passengers and bus drivers, we came to know that the problem is with the online portals (Redbus, Paytm, etc.), where, neither the pickup timings, nor the travel timings are anyway close to the actuals. The travel time was mentioned as 7:30 hours to 8 hours for most of the Volvos. But, after hearing this, some of the drivers even laughed like anything and exclaimed in wonder that “Even if we fly the buses, then also it’s not possible to reach Manali any time before 10 hours (approx.) in that road!”
~June 12, 2015~
The roaring Beas on the way to Manali
We reached Manali private Bus Stand the next morning at 11:40 AM. Luckily we had our hotel rooms pre-booked for one night at Hotel Trishul and so, we didn’t have to waste our time in searching for a room. Two auto rickshaws took us to our Hotel and charged Rs. 150 each.
Hotel Trishul at Aleo, Manali
Mr. Amit Trishul, the owner of the hotel is a nice gentleman. He welcomed us in a warm manner and also provided the latest information on the Leh-Manali Highway status, which was still closed at Baralacha La. He also suggested us that if we are that much desparate to visit Ladakh, then we should start our journey and take the Srinagar-Leh Highway to reach Ladakh that was already opened. While coming back, we can take the Leh-Manali Highway because, based on the rumors, this road should get opened by that time. He also confirmed us that he can manage to book a cab for us for that route since; most of the cab drivers from Manali don’t want to go through the Srinagar-Leh Highway due to their local taxi union protocol and longer route.
After getting freshened up, we had a nice lunch at Hotel Trishul itself. The food was damn good. While eating, we started discussing that whether we should go for this Srinagar-Leh Highway or not. The bikers will face a lot problem in this route as we will not be having much buffer days in our hand, if we go through this route, due to our compact schedule. Almost every day, we need to drive/ride for almost 8-10 hours, which will be really hectic and we will be left with no choice if someone gets ill or if someday we want to skip and deviate from the itinerary. So, we thought of visiting the SDM office first and then make changes to our plan accordingly.
We headed out from the hotel at around 1 PM, for collecting the bikes that we had already booked from BRM. We knew that BRM was in Vashisht, but had no idea like where Vashisht was. After enquiring from the locals, we started trekking towards Vashisht. On our way, we enquired about the car rental and the road status from almost all the tours & travels that were present between Aleo and Manali Mall. When we came close to the bridge near the mall area, we got divided into 3 groups. Vikash, Shouvik & Amal went towards Vashisht for collecting the bikes, Kaushik went for checking the cab rates and collecting the route information, I & Deepu went towards the SDM office to get the latest and updated news on the Leh-Manali highway status.
All set to explore New Manali and get things ready for our journey
An Apple a day keeps the Doctor away!
Narrow Bridge connecting Aleo with Manali Mall road
Casual posing on the New Manali Bridge
Voila…!!!... Guess what…!!!... The officials at the SDM office informed us that the Baralacha La has been cleared finally and around 50 cars and bikes passed the cross on that day. Though there were no official announcements but, they confirmed that by the next day, the circular will come.
Our excitement took a different shape and that definitely called for a celebration. But, the thing was that, we needed to wait for one other day at Manali, since we didn’t had our car booked and apparently, we didn’t had the permit issued, that is required for vehicles crossing the Rohtang Pass.
***There is a rule on the vehicles crossing Rohtang Pass from Manali. The number of vehicles has been limited to 1000 cars per day (600 petrol and 400 diesel vehicles) and the vehicles should get the pass issued from the DM office itself before leaving for Rohtang La. The pass is also issued till 3PM and is available on first come first serve basis. The local agents can also get your pass issued beforehand, charging some few bucks extra for them. This rule is limited to four wheeler only and not for the two wheeler.
Manali Mall
Manali Mall
Siddu - A local dish made with flour, stuffed with poppy seeds & onion, baked & served with green chutney
By evening, we got the two wheelers that we booked through BRM and also booked an Innova from Sonam, a local travel agent cum driver who runs his vehicles for the Leh trip from Manali. Sonam confirmed us that if the circular comes the next day then, he would get the permit issued from the SDM office and we do not need to worry on that.
We were much relieved and thought of spending the next day in and around Manali. In this way, the bikes will also get checked for a whole day and we will get accustomed to them. We also decided to take two bikes to Leh and not three bikes based on our initial itinerary. In this way it will ensure that we have sufficient backup riders in case something happens to someone and the person needs rest for a day or something like that.
~June 13, 2015~
We woke up a bit late this morning at around 9-9:30 AM. Our room at Hotel Trishul was pre-booked for one night and due to heavy rush, we didn’t have another day extended at the same hotel. But, the Hotel Manager helped us by arranging our stay at New Manali Inn, a hotel nearby. Though the hotel was not that great as Trishul but, it was okay for a night stay.
After shifting our luggage, we had breakfast and headed for Solang Valley, a beautiful place situated at around 14 km away from Manali, on the way to Rohtang Pass. Solang Valley is famous for its adventurous sports activities that includes paragliding, parachuting, skiing during the winters which is replaced by zorbing during summers, horse riding, quad biking and ropeway.
On our way to Solang Valley
The pillions enjoying the beauty of Mother Nature
A quick halt mid way
Long traffic caused due to some landslide earlier. Road work in progress.
Paragliding at Solang Valley
"Solang Valley"
We six were on 3 Royal Enfield and reached Solang Valley at around 11:30 AM – 12 PM, spent around 2 hours there and headed back towards old Manali. In the meantime, we tried to reach Sonam in order to enquire regarding the permit and also for the confirmation on our cab but, to our wonder, his cell was either not reachable or switched off. We were taken aback and left with no choice; we made our car booking confirmed with Naoang, another travel agent whom we met that day morning.
We returned to Old Manali, had a great lunch and then, some (I & Deepu) headed back to the Manali Mall area for shopping some of the necessaries that are needed on our way to Leh. Kaushik went to meet Naoang and check on the status of our permit; Shouvik, Vikash and Amal went back to BRM to give back one bike and get the other bikes fixed, as there were some problems we were facing with the bikes.
Delicious Fish Tandoori at a cafe in Old Manali
Old Manali market area
The "Grass" was greener...!!!...
The gorging Beas
We all met again back in our hotel at around 8 PM. Got the bike tanks refilled. Naoang came to meet us after we had our dinner and took an advance of 20K. He confirmed that the car will be waiting outside at 7 AM. Since, we were heading till Jispa, the next day, so, he told that 7 AM is absolutely fine to start with.
In the meantime, at around 9 PM, Sonam called us and told that he was busy that day and took some passengers to Rohtang, where his cell was out of reach. We told him that we waited for him and then to be on the safe side, we already confirmed our booking with someone else.
With lots of excitement and no idea of what is there next, we tried to sleep and was finally able to after around 1-2 AM.
~June 14, 2015~
The crux of the trip begins…..!!!!.....
Let’s Ride….!!!...
We woke up and got ready by around 7:15 AM. To our wonder, we found that Sonam and his driver, Ravi came with Naoang. It was during this time, we came to know that there are hardly some 250-300 commercial vehicles in Manali that dedicatedly run in this Leh-Manali highway during the season time and almost everyone is linked to the other in some way or the other. Even they have an almost fixed rate chart so that, neither the tourists, nor the drivers are cheated or less paid in any way.
Anyway, we finally started from Manali at 7:30 AM. Kaushik and Deepu were in the Innova that was almost empty with the back side dumped with our luggage. I, Shouvik, Vikash and Amal were on a Classic 350 and a Thunderbird 500.
Let's Ride...........!!!!...........
Breathtaking views on the way
We reached Gulaba Check Post at 9:10 AM and saw an almost 1-1.5 Kms of traffic. We were lucky enough because we were riding two wheelers and so didn’t have to waste our time on that queue.
Long queue of traffic before Gulaba Check Post
A short break after the Gulaba Check post
While I was riding the bike with Shouvik as my pillion, we met with an accident around 2 kms before reaching Marhi; that too due to some idiot driving a hatchback in a nonsensical manner.
Getting our bike fixed temporarily
10 AM: The road got blocked just before Marhi, due to landslides.
Waiting for the blockage to get cleared
The BRO personals clearing the road blockage caused due to the Landslide
Beautiful Marhi
And the journey continues
Entering the first "Zero Visibility Zone" during this trip before reaching Rohtang top
A short break in the "Zero Visibility Zone"
A quick selfie when the road got blocked ahead again due to narrow passage & bad condition
The wait continues
Crossing the "Snow Tunnels" to reach Rohtang Top
12:40 PM: We were at Rohtang Top. Had some tea and coffee, waited for some time for the Innova to arrive, but, thought that the car will run at a much faster speed when there will be very less or no traffic after Rohtang and they will be able to catch us. So, we left an SMS to both Deepu and Kaushik and again started with our motto – “Let’s Ride…!!!...”
*** Already the network problem began when we started ascending for Rohtang. The network was available at Rohtang Top, but, after crossing it, there was no network until Keylong.
Quenching our thirst at Rohtang Top
"All you need for happiness is a good gun, a good horse, and a good wife." - Daniel Boone
Roadside stalls along Rohtang La
Stretches of narrow passes, bad road and zero visibility
Sports activities at Rohtang Top includes quad biking
Waiting for the traffic to get cleared at Rohtang Top
Snow Scooters: another sports activity at Rohtang Top
In search for an appropriate rider!
“Rest and be thankful.” ― William Wordsworth
Snow Point - Rohtang Top
Finally got relieved of the nasty traffic as we headed further from Rohtang Top
"Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative effort." - Franklin D. Roosevelt
Yellow beaked crows at Rohtang!
"If you truly love nature, you will find beauty everywhere." - Vincent Van Gogh
Downhill from Rohtang Top
And the stretches of roads in bad conditions began
"I go to nature to be soothed and healed, and to have my senses put in order." - John Burroughs
Stunning beauty of Mother Nature
The bad stretches continues!
"Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better." - Albert Einstein
3:19 PM: We entered the Lahaul Valley and reached Khoksar, the next checkpost.
Khoksar
This made us realize that we are already in a low air pressure zone!
Crossing the Khoksar bridge
The beauty of Lahaul Valley begins
"You are a child of the universe, no less than the trees and the stars; you have a right to be here." - Desiderata
Crossing the first stream on our way
No captions please! :P
Greener Sissu
Sissu, a small village on the way
Gorgeous Lahaul Valley!
Wish I could own that house!
"The woods are lovely, dark and deep. But I have promises to keep, and miles to go before I sleep." - Robert Frost
Another stretch of the bad road
"Study nature, love nature, stay close to nature. It will never fail you." - Frank Lloyd Wright
5:12 PM: Reached Tandi, the last petrol pump on the Leh-Manali Highway. Each and every vehicle needs to refill their tank and carry extra reserves in Jars. The reason behind this is the next petrol pump is situated 365 Kms away.
Refill your Tanks and carry reserves as the next Filling Station is 365 KM ahead!
The Tandi Bridge
5:50 PM: Reached Keylong, the last major town in this highway. You will also find the last ATM (SBI) here before Upshi. It is also here that you will receive the last network on your mobile (Airtel, BSNL) before Karu. I was using Vodafone and didn’t receive any network there. Anyway, who cares about network when you are on your dream road trip? We got our rides, a little serviced here at Keylong.
Welcome to Keylong!
Getting our bikes serviced
A view of the town of Keylong
6:07 PM: Halted at Yarkid Restaurant to have the so called “Lunch” and received a call from the tent owner at Jispa, who mentioned that the Innova has already reached their camp!
Had a great lunch!
7:20 PM: Reached Jispa, our first night halt after Manali in the “Himalayan Midway Camp”.
Our first night halt after Manali
Camp Fire - A must add on to your stay that will relieve you a lot
A decent dinner inside the Tents
~June 15, 2015~
One of the most remarkable days from the whole trip!
We had a great sleep amidst nature in the tented accommodation. I woke up the earliest I guess at around 3:30 AM and headed out for feeling the nature and getting some early morning shots. Throughout the day, it was cloudy and I was a bit pissed off!
4 AM: In search for some early morning shots
"Be a gentle friend to trees and they will give you back beauty, cool and fragrant shade, and many birds, singing."
"Every flower is a soul blossoming in nature." - Gerard De Nerval
Good Mooooooooorning Jispa......!!!!.....
“He who moves a mountain begins by carrying away small stones first”
Arun, the care taker of the camp, arranged breakfast for us. We had it and hit the road at 7:20 AM.
Getting started for one of the most remarkable day
This day, I was travelling in car along with Kaushik and Deepu due to some minor injuries that I received the other day. Amal, Vikash and Shouvik were riding the two wheelers.
Our plan was to halt at certain places like the Deepak Tal, Sarchu & Pang so that; both the bikers and the car travel almost equal distance at certain intervals. Depending on the time we reach Pang, we will head for Leh, the same day or will give a halt somewhere middle.
Darcha Check Post just after crossing Jispa
Darcha
Heading towards the unknown
The first stream that we crossed after Darcha
8 AM: We reached Deepak Tal, a lake situated around 21 Kms from Jispa and waited for around 10-15 min for the bikers. There were no signs of the bikers and we thought to proceed and wait somewhere in Sarchu. This was a mistake that we made and realized the next day!
Deepak Tal
8:40 AM: Crossed Zing Zing Bar. The police person at this check post told us to wait for some time and then cross the Baralacha La, as there was heavy snowfall at the top with almost zero visibility at certain places and roads being covered by snow again, which the BRO will clear later after the weather gets better.
Zing Zing Bar
Ravi, our chauffeur told him okay and started driving again. He was a good guy but, we had no idea why he did that. On asking him, he told that, “Don’t worry, I know this road from the core and I will manage!” It was really true and we became absolutely comfortable with his driving skills after he drove amazingly through the Baralacha La stretch.
The beginning of the deadly Baralacha La
Road got blocked due to heavy snowfall
Deadly in every way
Trying hard to bypass the obstacles and proceed ahead
Got stuck again!
"Sunshine is delicious, rain is refreshing, wind braces us up, snow is exhilarating; there is really no such thing as bad weather, only different kinds of good weather." - John Ruskin
It's will power, strong desire & blessings that you need to cross this stretch!
Continuous struggle against bad weather & road
9:28 AM: Baralacha La top
Stunned & amazed!
Ride through the deadly Baralacha La!
Don't get lost like the road! Make your own way & be safe!
No signs of relief for miles & miles
The crane was kept there last night. What happened to it in just one night!
10:08 AM: Crossed Baralacha La
The frozen stream. Two wheeler can take the bridge but, four wheeler need to go off road!
Finally, a sign of relief to see something other than white!
Killingsarai
Enjoying the warmness after a long stretch of chilled weather
11 AM: Reached Sarchu. Due to the absence of any feasible tents, as heard earlier, we headed for Pang.
"In the presence of eternity, the mountains are as transient as the clouds." - Robert Green Ingersoll
I named it "Grand Canyon of India"
The historical Gata Loops begins!
"Mountains are the beginning and the end of all natural scenery." - John Ruskin
I wished the sky was clear!
12:24 AM: Crossed Nakeela Pass
Nakee La
Lachung La
"On earth there is no heaven, but there are pieces of it." - Jules Renard
"Our peace shall stand as firm as rocky mountains." - William Shakespeare
The speechless natural formations as if the Almighty created magic!
Someone pinch me hard please! It seems that I am lost in wonderland!
"Nature always wears the colors of the spirit." - Ralph Waldo Emerson
1:58 PM: Reached Pang. We had some food and waited there till around 3:15 PM. Then, Ravi told us to start for Leh and get the hotels booked there so that, the bikers will get the rooms ready once they reach Leh. Moreover, we came to know at this point that after dropping us, Ravi will head back to Manali the same night because, he has other tourists to pick up from Manali on 17th morning. So, without waiting for longer, we headed for Leh.
Pang
Numerous Tents at Pang that offers food and also Beds at night
Delicious Thukpa
The military base at Pang
God's own creation continues!
The non-ending Morey Plains/Pang Top/Chuha Top
Taglang La - The second highest Pass of the World
Lucky enough to spot a herd of Ibex on the way
4:54 PM: Crossed Rumtse.
Stunning multi-colored mountains!
"Peace comes from within. Do not seek it without." - Buddha
"Nature is the art of God." - Dante Alighieri
5:30 PM: Reached Upshi. The commercial vehicle tax needs to be paid at Upshi RTO for entering J&K. There was a small halt at Upshi.
Entering Upshi
A small halt while our chauffeur, Ravi went for paying the Tax at the RTO
Kaushik
6:20 PM: Finally, half of the group got Leh’d!
"One touch of nature makes the whole world kin." - William Shakespeare
"To travel is to take a journey into yourself." - Danny Kaye
We got a point of contact, Lobzang, from the tent at Pang, where we had our lunch. It was Lobzang’s mother who runs the Tent at Pang. She gave her son’s contact details for hotel and travel purpose at Leh. After crossing Karu, we got network in the Airtel postpaid connection of Kaushik.
We called Lobzang on our way and headed directly to the place where Lobzang was waiting for us. After checking 2 guest houses, we took one, “Lyon Guest House”, situated at old Leh road, near to the “Shanti Stupa”.
But, where are the rest of the people! They got separated and are left somewhere in the middle with no contacts at all. We waited till around 8:30 PM, hoping that they might arrive. After that with some tension and anxiety around, we hit the bed without even having proper dinner.
~June 16, 2015~
We woke up at around 9:30 AM, had breakfast in a restaurant nearby, “The Wonderland Café” and headed out to explore Leh. Though we were excited enough that we finally made it to Leh but, the nervousness was increasing as the day passed by.
Where are the rest of the guys? Are they fine? Is everything good with them? A lot of assumptions were summing up in our head and it took a different shape when every assumption of ours went wrong and we still didn’t have any clue about their being even after 3:30 PM.
We were feeling restless and uncomfortable with no idea like what to do or where to go! What might have happened! You never know as it is one of the most dangerous circuits of the world!
